Restaurant review: The Old Barn at Felpham

In January it had its licence revoked and many thought that this might be the end of the road for this landmark pub.

But now it is back with a new ethos, a new head chef Noel Roche, and a determination to be the best.

The emphasis is on offering a friendly pub and a quality restaurant which delivers sublime food on a par with some of the finest establishments in the region.

We checked it out this week and were immensely impressed.

It isn’t Michelin Star. Yet.

But it does show fledgling potential of reaching that rare standard.

A constantly changing menu that builds on the freshest local produce available; an extraordinary commitment to detail - the jus and sauces alone give testimony to the skill of the chef; and the presentation of the food, all signal a restaurant of real culinary sophistication.

The range of meals is also extremely clever, understanding both the expectations of the local market and the aspirations of a wider audience.

Starters, for example, on the night of our visit, included chicken liver pate, apple and fennel chutney, with toasted sourdough bread (£5.25). The pate had the perfect balance of flavour and texture. The chutney enhanced it without overpowering the taste.

The wild mushrooms in a madeira cream sauce with sourdough toast (£4.95) were rich and creamy but still preserved the delicacy of the mushrooms.

Of the mains, the pan-roasted South Downs lamb rump (£13.95) was served pink as promised. It was accompanied by a smooth mashed potato and perfectly crisp green beans. You can have too much of a good thing, and the red wine jus might have been better served more sparingly with a side miniature jug for those wishing to indulge a little more.

The pan-fried 80z rib eye steak, slow roasted field mushrooms - thickly sliced and bursting with taste - and the chef’s triple cooked chips (£18.95) was tender and delicious. The chips, in particular, were a triumph - soft and fluffly within while exploding out of a crisp shell. The peppercorn sauce (£1.95), clearly homemade, was perfection.

With the exception of ice cream, the dessert selection was heavily weighted toward chocolate - which would not be everyone’s choice.

We tasted the chocolate brownie, chocolate sauce, and vanilla ice cream (£4.25) and the salted chocolate and vanilla sable biscuit tart, honeycomb ice cream, and raspberry coulis (£5.50).

They were both extraordinarily rich and powerful - but a lighter option should also be included.

The service was excellent. Polite and friendly.

And the pub has been overhauled with fresh paint and a new-look in the restaurant area. But the interior look should, in our view, be regarded as a work in progress. The heavy brown paint, the selection of branded pub mirrors and posters, the Christmas tree lights and the pot plants owe too much to a traditional pub and not enough to a contemporary restaurant at the cutting edge of brilliance.

Some National Trust style paints; an eclectic mix of antique mirrors; a more subtle and complex use of light; a couple of bold shabby chic chandeliers and a couple of statement items of decoration would transform the ambiance. It need not be expensive - but it would complement the amazingly good food.

Make no mistake, the transformation of The Old Barn at Flepham has been bold and brave - especially when viewed in the context of its recent history.

Noel Roche is a man of enormous talent.

As the customer base grows, if there can be a little more investment in the tiny kitchen and an evolving transformation of the interior decor it has the potential to be one of the signature dining establishments in Sussex.

In the meantime, it is already exceptional - with an offering a million miles away from the image of microwaved pub food. If you haven’t visited for a meal - make sure you do soon. The Sunday lunch menu looks particularly tempting and great value.

For more information go to their website at www.theoldbarnfelpham.com/