Restaurant Inspector

A GIANT photograph of Taormina in Sicily dominates the southern wall in Horsham’s newest restaurant.

Never has the tone and style of an establishment been set so effectively. It also extends the geographic reach still further of this rapidly developing eating quarter of town.

Just opposite is Wabi – the town’s premiere Japanese restaurant. Further down East Street are a wide range of English and Mediterranean style eateries.

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But Carmela, standing proud at the head of Denne Road in what is arguably the oldest building in Horsham, brings a real flavour of Sicily to the street scene too.

Francesco Raciti is the man behind Carmela – but he also has the huge support of his family and some of the best restaurant staff in town.

When you speak to him, you sense immediately his immense passion for the place.

He has been pivotal in the establishment of many restaurants in the area but for years he has had his eye on this landmark circa 1500 building. His vision is clear. “Our aim is that everything should be homemade and that just about everything should be sourced locally,” he said.

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But value for money is also critical to his agenda. He knows just how price conscious diners in Horsham have become. That’s why he was keen to find a decent bottle of house wine at just 10 – and the reason for his 9.95 lunch and dinner menu from September 4 to October 3 to celebrate the town’s Big Nibble.

But it’s not just about price. Nor is it only about finding the best local ingredients. “We are trying to be as different as possible. Every time we pick a dish we want it to be different.”

It means that dining should be a gastronomic adventure – on a budget. Francesco explained: “I’m spending lots of time researching just to find the right products at the right price.

“I want this place to be friendly and relaxed. We can cater for any occasion. But we want to create somewhere where people can afford to come twice a week.”

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Family is at the heart of Sicilian life – and that was never more so than here. His sister Rossello Scuderi is the manager. But his mother is also the inspiration for so much that is right about Carmela’s.

When the Restaurant Inspector visited, we tasted a selection of dishes from the extensive menu. The Parmigiana was delicious, with layers of fried aubergine laced with tomato sauce, hard boiled egg, fresh basil, and what the menu boasts to be ‘one of the best’ parmesan cheeses in Italy working in perfect harmony.

(Starter 5.50) Carmela’s Polpette is beef mince balls but made to a secret recipe kept by Francesco’s mother, served in a lightly seasoned tomato sauce accompanied with warm ciabatta bread.

(Starter 5.75 / Main 11.95 with spaghetti and basil) The quest to stand apart from the traditional Italian offerings is reflected in the main courses with ingredients like wild boar in the Ravioloni Al Cinghiale (13.95), and pistachio combined with homemade Sicilian sausage in the Rigatoni Carmela (8.50).

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Sicilian accompaniments may surprise some, with an orange and fennel salad with whole garlic and mint served alongside a swordfish steak. But we found the unusual flavour combinations of the Pescespada Spertu exquisite. (13.95) For those who prefer more familiar tastes the Agnello C’alivi, a shank of lamb with garlic and rosemary served in a rich red wine sauce shouldn’t fail to satisfy. (14.50)

Our verdict was that Carmela already lives up to expectation in so many ways. It’s true that for £10 a bottle you are not going to get the best Sicilian wine. And the experimental nature of some of the ingredients means you are not going to suffer the same bland high street tastes to which we have all become accustomed.

This lifts you out of your comfort zone – but only just a little.

We loved the food. More than that with seating both inside and outside there is a wonderful, social atmosphere.

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Francesco is already a legend in Horsham for his involvement in so many eating establishments. Now he has free reign – and his ingredients of warmth, localness, friendliness, family, and value should ensure Carmela becomes a destination restaurant in this exciting quarter of town.

What do you think? Add your comments below.