Island wines from the Mediterranean

Hundreds of years BC, the Greeks were experienced winemakers and spread their expertise through their Empire. This was closely followed by the Romans and their extensive Empire, spreading their culture including vine growing and winemaking throughout Europe, even as far north as the British Isles.

The Mediterranean region has the ideal conditions for growing wine grapes, with its warm climate, varied topography and different soils. Apart from the countries surrounding the sea, many of the islands, both large and small, also produce high quality, characterful wines, influenced by the specific climatic and environmental conditions.

Sicily, one of the larger of the Mediterranean islands, has a long history of winemaking, with a wide range of grape varieties grown. Fiano Sicilia Mandrarossa 2021 is one of the Wine Society’s wine champions, made from the Fiano grape. Deliciously fruity and aromatic, with white peach and nectarine flavours, underpinned by a mineral and citrus palate and hints of herbs. £10.50.

Sicily also produces some excellent red wines, such as Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2018. Made mainly from Nero d’Avola – Sicily’s prime red grape – and blended with 40% of the fresher Frappato, this is a mellow and elegant red from one of the top areas of the island. The wine is produced organically and has deep flavours of ripe plums and morello cherries. Considerable finesse, with touches of raspberry and an array of spices. Fabulous pasta wine. £11.50. Moving further north to another Italian island, Cannonau di Sardegna Sella and Mosca 2020 is a fresh, fruity red from Cannonau, otherwise known as Grenache or Garnacha. Medium bodied, with an abundance of fresh red berry fruit and aroma of strawberries, with a touch of black pepper. £10.50. Further north again is the beautiful island of Corsica, under French ownership. Corsica excels in making high quality, refreshing rosé, one of which is Domaine Comte Peraldi Ajaccio Rosé 2021. This is one of Corsica’s historic estates, producing some of the best wines of the island. Made mainly from the local variety Sciaccarellu, the wine is bone dry with great finesse and elegance, deep red berry flavours and great length on the palate. Floral and peppery notes on the nose and fine, underlying structure on the palate. £18.50. Moving east, the Greek island of Crete makes an interesting array of mainly reds and rosés. Kedros Liatiko Rosé 2021 comes from Lyrarakis on the foothills of Mount Kedros. Using both altitude and bush vine training, the grapes are protected from heat and produce a delicate, fresh, pale pink with character and concentration. Made from 100% liatiko, an indigenous variety to Crete, it has a refreshing red berry flavour, with a mineral touch. £13.50.

Staying with Greece, but moving to a different island, Samos is renowned for its sweet wines from the Muscat grape. Samos Anthemis 2015, benefits from a few years age to increase depth and complexity, presented in a handy 50cl size bottle. Deliciously sweet with a deep amber colour, it has complex flavours of honey, preserved orange peel and muscatel raisins. Fabulous dessert wine. £9.95

All the wines in this article are available from The Wine Society.