The best bit of Britain I know

MY choice for the best of the South Downs National Park is Kingley Vale. Well I would say that wouldn't I, I have studied and managed the site for 40 years.

In case you've never been there it is three miles north-west of Chichester and nearly a mile from the nearest car parks at West Stoke or Stoughton.

This is the only National Nature Reserve in West Sussex, and one of the first ever NNRs dating back to 1952.

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Before that the military used it as a firing range for a hundred years because the steep backdrop of the rising downland made a secure barrier to contain flying missiles and bullets.

During the last war 2,000 Canadian troops were hidden there in its dense woods before D-Day, and British guerillas were to be hidden under the trees to attack German invasion from the rear.

Before the military, this was an 18th century centre for sheep fairs and all-year grazing.

But long before that the Romans used the hot, south-facing valley as a vineyard and they grew wheat on the plateau.

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Going back even further in time, the place was used by Iron and Bronze Age farmers who left behind remains of their life in 16 different archaeological monuments from field banks to large burial mounds and the remains of flint mines.

But all this is only half the story of this remarkable place.

It was the cradle of nature conservation philosophy because in 1911 Arthur Tansley was told by a visiting German botanist that Kingley Vale was the finest yew forest in Europe.

Tansley was so intrigued by the statement that he there and then decided to try to save the forest for the nation. He thought the view from the hilltop overlooking the Isle of Wight was the finest in Britain.

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It took him 36 years to set up the Nature Conservancy then five years later Kingley Vale was declared one of the first NNRs.

So what is so special about it? It is still acknowledged to be the finest yew forest in Europe with 30,000 yew trees. Some are enormous and may be a thousand years old or more.

There are 300 species of downland flowers there, 56 species of breeding birds, and 41 species of butterflies have been recorded out of the national list of 58.

It forms one of the loveliest walks imaginable, as you circle the vast valley set out like an amphitheatre.

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I have written books about the place and have more in the pipeline, for the supply of stories and history, wildlife and refreshing views give endless interest.

It is just the best bit of Britain I know and I know many people agree.