Restaurant review: Kindling Restaurant a Brighton champion of simple, quality local food

Kindling Restaurant, located on East Street just a short walk from the seafront, was opened in December 2019 by head chefs Holly Taylor and Toby Geneen

The timing of this opening was rather unfortunate, as the hospitality business was less than 3 months away from suffering its biggest ever hit with the Covid-19 pandemic forcing endless closures and restrictions for more than a year and a half.

Because of this, Kindling has not had its opportunity to shine in the Sussex restaurant ecosystem. However, with the world seemingly moving away from the worst effects of Covid, it is now time for the business to make its mark in the seaside city – having been included in the MICHELIN Guide 2022.

When first entering the building on a crisp Sunday afternoon, we were greeted by friendly staff members, who showed both expertise and warmth within their service throughout our time there.

The minimalist bohemian décor is pleasing on the eye, the artwork on the wall and the plants hanging from the ceilings find beauty within their simplicity, complementing the ethos of the food served to us perfectly.

Holly and Toby’s message is straight to the point - local suppliers, minimal waste and prioritising quality. Creating a menu of seasonal British small plates that are served when they are ready to the table.

Their philosophy was evident from the first bite of our first dish, slices of Venison Pancheta from the Ashdown Forest is topped with thick strands of Lord of the Hundreds (a hard sheep’s cheese produced in East Sussex) and walnuts. These rich, smoky flavours excited the palate, leaving you intrigued for what else was to come.

The grilled Romanesco cauliflower was the most visually-stunning dish we ordered, with a fermented red pepper sauce and toasted almonds twirled delicately over the top of the large floret. Ironically, it was the least memorable on the palette, the only real disappointment in the afternoon.

This and the rather unusual music choice of the restaurant, liquid drum and bass is not what you expect to hear in a regular restaurant setting and with good reason, failing to add to the ambience of the overall theme the business was trying to achieve.

Our third dish flawlessly captured the coastal setting. A soft, light, chalk stream trout fish cake that oozed freshness from the second the knife touched it, served with an inventive celeriac remoulade and nasturtium flower.

We were saved the best to last however, when we ordered a smooth lamb stew surrounded by baked mash potato and topped with buttery Cavelo Nero.

A dish like this should be comforting and uplifting through its bold flavours and textures. This bowl acted like a warm blanket on a cold winter’s day, a beautiful ending to an enjoyable afternoon of food.

Kindling’s ambition to serve quality, local food is done successfully through dishes which don’t try to do too much, a handful of ingredients on one plate used effectively by Holly and Toby to create something that is both tasty and interesting.

For couples looking for somewhere to enjoy a weekend lunch, this venue is the ideal setting to experience the best of what local cuisine has to offer.

To find out more about Kindling click here