​Paying homage to the versatile Viognier grape: Richard Esling

Last week was Malbec Day, Chardonnay Day is a little later, with Sauvignon Blanc Day around the corner and this Friday is Viognier Day!

Still, it does give the opportunity – or excuse – to delve into the ranges of wines from around the world which are made from that variety.

Viognier is a fabulously aromatic grape variety, with origins in the northern Rhone valley, first mentioned in documents in 1781.

It is a grape variety which is now grown with great success all over the world but was amazingly on the point of extinction as recently as the late 1960s.

The variety back then gave very low yields and was greatly susceptible to disease and vagaries of the weather conditions and the total vineyard area was reduced to just 35 acres.

However, the particularly distinctive characteristics in terms of aromatics and flavours, grabbed the attention of winemakers both in other regions of France, such as the Languedoc, and in California.

The quality of the vines was improved by careful selection of cuttings and now there are over 11,000 acres of Viognier in France alone, with over 3000 acres in California and increasing amounts grown in other parts of the US, Argentina and other countries.

The best quality Viognier still comes from Condrieu in the Northern Rhone Valley, the wines commanding high prices, the most famous being the oak-aged example from Chateau Grillet. The variety needs to be fully ripe in order to develop its wonderful aromas, hence the importance of vineyard site.

The vineyards also need careful management in order to restrict the yield and prevent over-cropping. Acidity, however, needs to be maintained and thus the exact harvest date needs careful attention.

Viognier is distantly related to another Rhone variety – the black grape Syrah and is sometimes added in small quantities to Syrah wines during their fermentation, to increase stability and aromatics.

It is also often blended with other varieties in both the Rhone Valley and the Languedoc.

Wines made from Viognier are becoming increasingly popular due to their interesting and appealing aromas, full body and soft, mellow flavours.

Aromatics include apricots, hawthorn blossom, gingerbread and honeysuckle, adding substantially to its versatility in food pairing.

Its softness comes from relatively low acidity, meaning also that the wines are not destined for longevity, needing to be drunk young.

With International Viognier Day happening on Friday 26th April this year, time to pay homage to a variety ‘back from the brink’, which is enjoyable in its own right, but also pairs incredibly well with Asian cuisine, Thai dishes, pan-fried duck fillets and many other flavoursome dishes.

M.Chapoutier is one of the great winemakers of the Rhone region and the producer makes a single vineyard, biodynamic and organic wine named Combe Pilate.

A delicate, elegant, yet full-bodied wine with aromas of peach, apricot and honeysuckle leaping from the glass. A classy, dry white with excellent balance and well-maintained acidity.

Available from online merchants between £17 and £20 per bottle, such as Eden Fine Wines and Fareham Wine Cellar.